In the horological realm, the integration of titanium in classic models often brings a rejuvenated aesthetic and functional appeal. Known for its lightweight and comfortable nature, titanium has been a choice metal in the industry for over five decades. Omega, a brand synonymous with precision and elegance, has recently launched its Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Dark Grey Titanium GMT watch, which embodies an innovative use of titanium extending beyond the usual exterior parts to the dial and movement of the timepiece.
This new iteration of the Seamaster is distinct with its silicon nitride ceramic case and bezel, marking a pioneering move by Omega, especially at such a large scale in watchmaking. This ceramic composition, with a colour closely resembling titanium, is a noteworthy feature. The new release sets a stage for a captivating comparison with Rolex’s Yacht-Master in RLX Titanium, particularly after previous critiques were levelled at the RLX Titanium for its coarse surface finish.
The allure of titanium is not just in its dark metallic hue but also in its featherweight property, which stands out significantly when contrasted against the customary stainless steel and precious metals used in watchmaking. Traditionally, the lightweight nature of titanium has been exploited for crafting the case, bezel, bracelet, and clasp. However, where Omega diverges from the norm is in its use of titanium for the movement and dial as well, replacing ceramic for the exterior, hence achieving a blend of high-tech aesthetic and reduced weight.
Belonging to a highly exclusive cadre, the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Dark Grey Titanium GMT watch showcases both the movement and dial fashioned from titanium, while its case and bezel are crafted from ceramic. This novel piece is expected to provide a distinct experience, reminiscent of the brand’s earlier model, the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Ultra Light, launched in 2019 with a titanium movement, priced just under $50,000. High-end creations by Greubel Forsey and others have also previously explored the use of titanium movement parts, underlining the prestigious league that this new Omega watch belongs to.
The heart of the Planet Ocean Dark Grey watch is the Omega 8906 Ti movement, a GMT variant of the 8900 caliber. This movement was among the pioneers to undergo the METAS-certified testing procedure, a hallmark of Omega’s Master Chronometer watches. The black ceramic dark grey titanium used for the mainplate and bridges, accompanied by laser ablation decorative techniques, not only aligns with the thematic elegance but also boasts of resistance to magnetic fields up to 15,000 gauss. Furthermore, the bi-directional self-winding movement operates at a frequency of 3.5Hz, ensuring a 60-hour power reserve, while providing GMT and time zone functionalities.
Dimensionally, the watch measures 45.5mm in width, a striking 17.4mm thickness, and a 51.5mm lug-to-lug distance. The face of the watch is protected by a domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment, while a flat sapphire crystal on the reverse unveils the intriguing Omega 8906 Ti movement. A notable feature is the helium escape valve positioned at 10 o’clock, an essential element of the Planet Ocean design, though it might continue to evoke mixed opinions among aficionados. The timepiece is secured by a rubber strap with a woven design, fastened by a grade 5 titanium buckle, complementing the substantial case, with a lug width of 22mm.
The dial is presented in dark grey sand-blasted titanium, contrasted with black coated, polished dial furniture, ensuring legibility with large luminous surfaces and subtle orange accents. The silicon nitride ceramic (Si3N4) used for the case and bezel harmonises with the dark tone of the grade 5 titanium employed for the dial and movement of the watch. Although Omega has not divulged specifics regarding the choice of ceramic, the anticipation builds for a hands-on experience to discern the advantages of this ceramic over the zirconium dioxide (ZrO2) used in other models.
