The Spanish chef’s reputation precedes him – three Michelin stars at DiverXO in Madrid, recognition from The Best Chef Awards for three consecutive years, and a fourth Michelin star for RavioXO. His Dubai venture, perched on the fourth floor of One&Only One Za’abeel, represents something altogether different: street food reimagined through the lens of a culinary revolutionary.
Our arrival through the graffitied tunnel sets the tone immediately. Giant octopi sprawl across walls emblazoned with “just cook it,” while the entrance itself feels like stepping into an urban artist’s fever dream. This theatrical introduction proves purposeful – Muñoz has created not merely a restaurant, but a complete sensory experience that challenges preconceptions from the moment one crosses the threshold.
Atmosphere and Design
The restaurant space unfolds as organised chaos, where conventional hospitality design surrenders to creative expression. Metal pipes snake across the bar area, supporting bottles in labyrinthine formations, while a neon proclamation declares “Candy is dandy, but liquor is quicker.” Above the dining room, mesh acrobats appear suspended in perpetual performance, and tables hang from the ceiling rather than anchoring to the floor.
Staff members navigate this theatrical landscape in strait jacket-inspired uniforms, serving cocktails in glassware sculpted to resemble human hearts. The effect could easily veer into gimmickry, yet the execution maintains a sophisticated edge that elevates the experience beyond mere novelty. Every element serves the broader narrative – a celebration of street culture refined through careful curation.
The kitchen counter seats offer the evening’s prime viewing positions. Here, we observe the meticulous choreography of dish preparation, where familiar techniques blend with unexpected ingredients. The open kitchen becomes performance space, allowing diners to witness the technical precision underlying each seemingly spontaneous creation.
A Culinary Journey Through Innovation
Opening Libations: Theatrical Mixology
Our evening begins with cocktails that challenge conventional drink construction. The Ceviche Sour arrives as liquid theatre – tequila and mezcal blend with vermouth while red onion and coriander cordial provide aromatic complexity. Grapefruit adds necessary acidity, while agave rounds out the spirit base. The drink captures ceviche’s essence in liquid form, delivering ocean-fresh flavours without a single piece of seafood.
The Spicy Margarita elevates the classic through careful smoke application. Mezcal provides the foundation, enhanced by homemade smoked chilli shrub that adds both heat and depth. Fresh lime juice balances the intensity, while Triple sec contributes orange notes. Worm salt on the rim delivers umami complexity that transforms each sip into a layered experience.
The Nam Phrik presents perhaps the evening’s most ambitious cocktail creation. Maraschino cherry-infused bourbon meets Laphroaig’s peated smokiness in an unlikely but successful marriage. Mandarin provides citrus brightness, while homemade cherry and mandarin jam adds sweetness and viscosity. Nam Phrik soda references the Thai chilli sauce, bringing spice and effervescence that ties the complex flavour profile together.
First Courses: Refined Rebellion
The Black Angus Nigiri Croquettes immediately establish the kitchen’s technical prowess. Kimchi croquettes achieve perfect exterior crispness while maintaining molten interiors. Black Angus tartare crowns each piece, its raw richness contrasting beautifully with the fermented heat below. Korean dressing adds umami depth, while sherry-pickled ginger provides acidic punctuation. Fresh jalapeño brings immediate heat that builds gradually, creating a dish that evolves with each bite.
The Club Sandwich reimagines the familiar through Asian technique and premium ingredients. Steamed Black Angus beef bao demonstrates perfect bread texture – soft, pillowy, and slightly sweet. The beef itself displays exceptional tenderness, while ricotta adds creamy richness. The signature XO burger sauce brings complexity through dried seafood and chilli oil, creating umami layers that elevate the entire construction. A fried quail egg provides golden richness, while shichimi contributes aromatic spice and textural interest.
Central Dishes: Technique and Tradition
The Octopus Tako showcases masterful flame work and sauce construction. Robata-grilled octopus achieves perfect tenderness while maintaining subtle char notes that speak to careful temperature control. The butter yellow morita mole provides earthy complexity through its blend of dried chillies and spices. Tree tomato gazpacho cuts through richness with bright acidity and fresh vegetable notes. Parmesan adds sharp saltiness and nutty depth, creating an unexpected but harmonious finish.
The Deep Fried Wonton Kebab presents lamb in an entirely new context. The wonton wrapper achieves golden crispness while protecting tender lamb within. Sweet and sour sauce provides familiar flavour notes with balanced acidity and sweetness. Mint yogurt cream offers cooling contrast and herbal freshness. Kikos contribute satisfying crunch, while corn rib adds sweetness and textural variety that complements the lamb’s richness.
The Signature: Lasagna Not Lasagna
This deconstructed classic exemplifies creative cooking at its finest. Layers of 45-day dried aged beef provide intense, concentrated flavours developed through careful aging for the Lasagne Not Lasagne. The meat displays remarkable depth and minerality that speaks to quality sourcing. Cardamom bechamel adds aromatic warmth without overwhelming the beef’s character. Spicy kimchi sauce contributes fermented complexity and gentle heat that builds throughout the dish. Fresh cherry tomatoes provide necessary acidity and brightness. Crispy wontons replace traditional pasta, their delicate crunch adding textural contrast while maintaining structural integrity.
Sweet Conclusions: The Candy Place
The Cucurucho presents nostalgic flavours through refined technique. Vanilla ice cream provides creamy foundation with pure, clean flavours. Salted caramel adds rich sweetness balanced by mineral notes. Cotton candy brings textural whimsy and additional sweetness. Fresh pineapple contributes tropical acidity that cuts through richness. Strawberries add berry brightness and natural sweetness, creating a dessert that feels both playful and sophisticated.
The Fluido represents the programme’s technical pinnacle. White chocolate and egg yolk lava cake flows with molten richness when pierced, revealing perfectly tempered chocolate within. The chocolate displays quality cocoa notes without excessive sweetness. Tom Kha ice cream provides an inspired pairing – coconut base infused with galangal, lemongrass, and lime leaf creates aromatic complexity that complements rather than competes with the chocolate. Coconut crumble reinforces the Thai flavour profile while adding textural variety, resulting in a dessert that challenges expectations while delivering genuine satisfaction.
Service Philosophy
Service throughout the evening reflects the venue’s overall energy – knowledgeable staff navigate the complex menu with genuine enthusiasm while maintaining professional standards. Servers demonstrate clear understanding of each dish’s composition and inspiration, offering thoughtful guidance without overwhelming diners with excessive detail. The team’s ability to match the restaurant’s theatrical energy while providing substantive hospitality proves particularly impressive.
Final Assessment
StreetXO Dubai succeeds in creating something genuinely unique within the city’s competitive dining landscape. Muñoz has translated his Madrid concept effectively while adapting to local expectations and preferences. The theatrical elements never overshadow the culinary achievement, and the technical execution consistently supports the creative vision.
This is dining as entertainment, yet entertainment grounded in serious culinary craft. The experience demands openness to new flavours and presentations, but rewards adventurous diners with memorable combinations and impeccable execution. For those seeking conventional fine dining, other venues may prove more suitable. However, for those willing to embrace culinary theatre backed by genuine skill, StreetXO delivers an experience unlike any other in Dubai.