Michelin-starred Italian elegance where cucina di famiglia meets culinary artistry

Nestled within the grounds of Emirates Palace Mandarin Oriental, Talea by Antonio Guida occupies an elegant al fresco space that feels both intimate and grand. The restaurant’s name, meaning “cutting” in Italian, symbolises life taking root and flourishing, a philosophy that permeates every aspect of Chef Antonio Guida’s approach to Italian cuisine. Under the guidance of Head Chef Luigi Stinga, recipient of the inaugural Michelin Guide Abu Dhabi’s Young Chef Award, Talea has earned its Michelin star through unwavering commitment to cucina di famiglia, the family-style cooking that forms the heart of Italian culinary tradition.

We arrived as the sun began its descent, casting warm light across the palace gardens. The outdoor setting, framed by soaring arches and lush greenery, created an atmosphere of relaxed sophistication. Contemporary design elements blend seamlessly with bold colours and fine table settings, whilst the open kitchen allows glimpses of the culinary theatre unfolding within. This is dining that feels special without being stuffy, elevated without being pretentious.

The six-course journey

We opted for the set menu, “Il Nostro Percorso” (Our Journey), a beautifully curated selection designed to showcase Guida’s distinctive culinary interpretation and Stinga’s precise execution. Each course told a story, balancing tradition with innovation in ways that felt natural rather than forced.

Essenza del Peperone

The opening course arrived as a study in subtlety and restraint. Bell pepper, capers, Parmesan, and crusco pepper combined to create layers of flavour that evolved with each bite. The bell pepper had been prepared to concentrate its natural sweetness without losing its fresh character. Capers provided sharp counterpoints, whilst aged Parmesan added umami depth. The crusco pepper, a sun-dried variety from Basilicata, brought gentle heat and a distinctive crunch. This wasn’t a dish that announced itself loudly. It invited contemplation, setting the tone for everything that followed.

Scampo

The seared langoustine arrived next, paired with grilled lettuce and citrus bisque. The technical precision required to achieve the perfect sear on langoustine is considerable. Crisp exterior, tender interior, no rubberiness. Stinga executed it flawlessly. The langoustine retained its natural sweetness whilst gaining complexity from the caramelisation. Grilled lettuce, an ingredient that could easily turn bitter or limp, instead provided a smoky, slightly charred element that complemented rather than competed. The citrus bisque tied everything together, its acidity cutting through the richness whilst enhancing the seafood’s delicate flavour.

Risotto alle Ostriche

The oyster risotto showcased Riserva del Fondatore Carnaroli rice, sorrel, and oysters in a dish that balanced creamy comfort with briny elegance. The rice had been cooked to that precise point where individual grains maintain structure whilst the whole achieves creaminess. Oysters, added at the final moment, retained their ocean freshness. Sorrel contributed a lemony brightness that prevented the dish from becoming heavy. This was risotto as it should be: luxurious but not cloying, rich but not overwhelming.

Ravioli di Melanzane

The handmade ravioli course proved the most unexpected. Smoked eggplant, beef tartare, and celery seemed an unlikely combination, yet the dish worked beautifully. The pasta itself was impeccably thin, providing just enough structure to hold the filling without dominating. Smoked eggplant brought depth and a hint of char, whilst the beef tartare added richness and a different textural element. Celery, often relegated to supporting roles, here provided freshness and a subtle anise note that tied the components together. This was creative cooking that only works when technique is flawless and instinct is refined.

Pollo e Carciofi

The roasted chicken with couscous and artichokes could have been anticlimactic after the ravioli’s creativity, but instead it provided welcome reassurance. Sometimes the simplest dishes are the hardest to execute perfectly, and roasted chicken is notoriously unforgiving. The chicken arrived with crisp, golden skin and moist, flavourful meat throughout. The couscous, light and fluffy, had absorbed cooking juices without becoming soggy. Artichokes, prepared to remove any bitterness whilst maintaining their distinctive character, completed a dish that celebrated quality ingredients treated with respect rather than overworked.

Rabarbaro, Macis e Basilico

The dessert course brought rhubarb, basil, strawberry, and mace gelato together in a composition that felt more like spring in a bowl than a conventional sweet course. Rhubarb, with its tart intensity, was balanced by strawberry’s gentler sweetness. Basil provided an herbal note that somehow made sense with the fruit, whilst mace gelato, made from the spice derived from nutmeg’s outer covering, added warmth and complexity. This was a dessert for adults, interesting rather than simply sweet, thought-provoking rather than just satisfying.

The tiramisu

The meal concluded with tiramisu, assembled tableside with theatrical flair that never tipped into gimmickry. The components were traditional: espresso-soaked savoiardi, mascarpone cream, cocoa. But the execution elevated this ubiquitous dessert into something memorable. The coffee was strong enough to cut through the cream’s richness, the mascarpone whipped to perfect airiness, the cocoa providing bitter contrast to the sweetness. Watching the assembly added to the experience, a final reminder that skilled hands and quality ingredients can make even familiar dishes feel special.

The wine selection

The wine list emphasises Italian producers, both historic estates and emerging winemakers. We opted for wine pairings, which brought bottles we wouldn’t have discovered ourselves. A crisp Friulano accompanied the early courses, its minerality and subtle fruit notes complementing the delicate flavours. A Nebbiolo-based wine from Piedmont arrived with the chicken, its tannins and acidity cutting through the richness whilst respecting the food. The pairings felt thoughtful rather than formulaic, each wine selected to enhance rather than simply match.

Service & atmosphere

Throughout the evening, the service struck that difficult balance between attentive and unobtrusive. Our server knew the menu intimately, able to explain techniques and ingredients without sounding rehearsed. Water glasses remained filled, wine arrived at proper temperatures, courses were paced to allow conversation without feeling rushed. The outdoor setting, particularly as evening progressed and temperatures cooled, felt magical without being contrived. Subtle lighting highlighted the surroundings without overwhelming, whilst the sounds of the palace gardens, rustling palms and distant fountains, provided a gentle soundtrack.

Understanding the vision

What makes Talea worthy of its Michelin star isn’t technical wizardry alone, though the technique is certainly impressive. It’s the clarity of vision that runs through every course. Guida’s concept of cucina di famiglia, family-style cooking rooted in tradition, could easily become nostalgic or limiting. Instead, it provides a foundation for creativity that feels grounded rather than arbitrary. Stinga’s execution honours this vision whilst adding his own precision and refinement.

The restaurant’s commitment to seasonal, sustainable ingredients extends beyond marketing speak. Produce comes from the hotel’s own gardens where possible, supplemented by carefully selected local suppliers. The menu changes to reflect what’s available and at its peak. This isn’t about virtue signalling. It’s about flavour. Ingredients picked at the right moment and treated properly simply taste better.

The verdict

Talea by Antonio Guida has earned its Michelin star through consistency, vision, and flawless execution. This is cooking that respects Italian tradition whilst refusing to be constrained by it. The setting, within the grounds of Emirates Palace, could overwhelm. Instead, it provides a beautiful backdrop that enhances without distracting. Service is polished but warm, knowledgeable but never condescending.

For those seeking one of Abu Dhabi’s finest dining experiences, Talea delivers without caveat. This is a restaurant that sees luxury not as ostentation or complication, but as doing things properly, using the best ingredients, applying refined technique, and creating an atmosphere where all these elements combine into something memorable. We left satisfied but not uncomfortably full, impressed but not overwhelmed, already thinking about when we might return.