For those who couldn’t attend the Swiss spectacle in person, fear not. We’ve curated the most remarkable releases from this year’s show – the timepieces that genuinely deserve your attention amid the noise of endless new product launches.
Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Perpetual Calendar
Parmigiani Fleurier’s Toric Perpetual Calendar stood out immediately with its cotton candy blue dial that practically leaps off the wrist. Despite housing one of watchmaking’s most complex mechanisms, the perpetual calendar subdials maintain a wonderfully minimalist aesthetic, allowing that glorious blue hue to take centre stage.
The brand’s representatives spoke about “private luxury” – these aren’t watches for showing off to others; they’re personal mechanical treasures designed for the wearer’s enjoyment alone. Most observers mightn’t recognise the PF signature, but that hardly matters when you’re sporting a watch this visually striking yet mechanically sophisticated.
Tudor Pelagos Ultra
Tudor’s Pelagos collection has taken the plunge into deeper waters with the aptly named Pelagos Ultra. The titanium-cased beast now measures 43mm across and boasts an impressive 1000-metre water resistance rating.
The beefed-up diver comes equipped with a METAS Master Chronometer movement, elevating it to proper tool watch territory. Eagle-eyed fans will notice the completely redesigned bracelet with its clever quick-adjustment system and luminous indicators on the clasp – perfect for adjusting underwater without having to squint through your diving mask.
What makes this release particularly noteworthy is how Tudor continues to build upon its core strengths rather than chasing trends. The Pelagos Ultra demonstrates the company’s commitment to functional, purpose-built timepieces that actually serve their intended purpose.
A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Honeygold
A. Lange & Söhne’s Odysseus in Honeygold caused the biggest stir among serious collectors at the fair – the piece that had everyone frantically refreshing Instagram feeds. This modern sports watch carries many of Lange’s signature design elements, like the oversized date display inspired by Dresden’s Semper Opera House clock.
The combination of their proprietary Honeygold material with that rich brown dial creates a surprisingly versatile aesthetic. Though typically reserved for their dressier offerings, this precious metal treatment looks absolutely stunning on their sportiest model. Those sharply angular pushers add a distinctive touch that separates it from the increasingly crowded field of luxury sports watches with integrated bracelets.
Cartier Tank à Guichet
Timothée Chalamet and Paul Mescal will likely be scrambling to secure one of Cartier’s revived Tank à Guichets. The coveted jumping-hour timepiece returns after a twenty-year absence, causing quite the commotion among watch connoisseurs with its minimalist apertures.
Of the four new variants, the playfully named ‘Oblique’ version deserves particular attention. At 37.6mm by 24.8mm and just 6mm thick, these precious metal creations (available in rose gold, yellow gold, and platinum) maintain substantial wrist presence while remaining elegantly slim. The Tank à Guichet demonstrates that sometimes, less truly is more – especially when crafted by the masters at Cartier.
Ulysse Nardin Diver AIR
Ulysse Nardin delivered a genuine surprise with their aptly named Diver AIR. Pick it up, and you’ll do a double-take – what looks like a substantial diving watch weighs barely more than a golf ball. The brand achieves this remarkable feat through a clever combination of ultralight titanium and carbon fibre construction, with virtually everything non-essential stripped away.
The result is so dramatically lightweight that you can actually see through portions of the watch to your wrist beneath. As one brand representative quipped during the presentation, “It’s made of 80% Swiss air.” Despite this ethereal presence, the Diver AIR still offers 200 metres of water resistance and can withstand impacts of 5,000g – proof that sometimes, less really is more.
Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon
When it comes to ultra-thin watchmaking, Bvlgari continues its relentless pursuit of horological records with the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon. At a scarcely believable 1.85mm thin, this skeletonised tourbillon watch represents the absolute pinnacle of miniaturisation.
Despite its wafer-thin profile, the manually-wound mechanical movement still offers an impressive 50-hour power reserve and beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour. It’s not merely a technical tour de force but a genuine achievement in watchmaking – one that begs the question of how much thinner mechanical watches can possibly get before physics itself says “enough.”
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication
Vacheron Constantin reclaimed its title for the most complicated wristwatch ever with the aptly named Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication-La Première. Packed with 41 different complications, this horological behemoth required eight years of dedicated work from a single master watchmaker.
What’s particularly impressive about this piece isn’t just the sheer number of complications but how they’re presented. Rather than appearing cluttered or overwhelming, the watch maintains a surprisingly modern and sporty aesthetic with lime green accents providing visual punch. Split-second chronograph functions combined with astronomical displays allow the wearer to calculate when specific stars or constellations will appear in the night sky – a genuinely useful feature for amateur astronomers.
Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Collection
Pound for pound, the new Oris Big Crown Pointer Date collection delivers exceptional value. The brand clearly understands its market position and delivers accordingly with clean, sophisticated watches featuring vibrant dials and practical functionality.
These preppy timepieces tick virtually every box for “ideal first mechanical watch” – distinctive looks, solid build quality, versatile sizing, and pricing that won’t require a second mortgage. Powered by Oris’ calibre 754 automatic movement, they demonstrate that thoughtful design doesn’t necessarily require spending five figures.
The 34mm Big Crown Diamonds variant with its twelve lab-grown diamond hour markers deserves particular attention for combining sustainability with understated luxury at a remarkably accessible price point.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual
Amid all the headline-grabbing releases, Rolex quietly delivered one of the most coveted additions to its lineup with the new Oyster Perpetual models. Available in three delectable matte pastel shades – pistachio, lavender, and beige – these watches demonstrate the crown’s willingness to experiment with colour in ways that feel both fresh and timeless.
The muted green pistachio variant stands out as particularly desirable, combining versatility with just enough personality to separate it from the pack. These OPs epitomise the playful spirit Rolex brought to this year’s fair, taking calculated risks while maintaining their signature aesthetic.
For many collectors at the show, these entry-level Rolexes generated more genuine excitement than some of the brand’s more complicated offerings. Sometimes perfection lies in simplicity executed flawlessly rather than mechanical complexity.
Final thoughts
Watches and Wonders 2025 demonstrated that traditional watchmaking remains vibrant despite the challenges of a digital age. The diversity of offerings – from accessible entry points to ultra-high-end complications – reinforces the enduring appeal of mechanical timekeeping.
What became clear throughout the fair was how many brands are returning to their core strengths rather than chasing fleeting trends. Whether through technical innovation, material science advancements, or simply refining existing classics, the industry continues to find new ways to make the ancient art of mechanical timekeeping relevant and desirable.