Nestled in the heart of Valletta, at 211 Republic Street, Noni emerges as a culinary haven where history and haute cuisine embrace. The address has been synonymous with hospitality and gastronomy for over two and a half centuries, painting a rich tableau that Noni now gracefully inherits. As you step into this Michelin-starred restaurant, you’re not merely entering a dining establishment; you’re stepping into the living, breathing history of Valletta’s gastronomic narrative.
The genius steering Noni’s culinary voyage is Michelin Starred Chef Jonathan Brincat. Known fondly as “Noni”, this name is not merely a moniker but a legacy he shares with the restaurant he founded. His culinary sojourn saw him honing his skills in the kitchens of five-star luxury and gastronomic establishments, before venturing to the prestigious terrains of Corinthia London under Michelin Starred chef Gary Hollihead.
His return to Malta was not just a homecoming, but the birth of a dream as he opened Noni at the coveted Valletta address, alongside his sister Ritienne, who helms the restaurant’s management with over a dozen years of expertise in high-end food and beverage.
The Location
Discreetly tucked away on one of Valletta’s deceptively narrow streets, Noni can be easily missed. This adds to the mystery, the secrecy, and the elation of discovery. Even once through the door, the journey continues further as guests are taken downstairs into the depths of the historic building. The transformative short trip presents a quaintly small, intimately private, and beautifully mysterious dining room. Dimly lit with modern furnishings, paired with the archeological preserves of the 600 year old building, the space is as enchanting as it is exclusive.
The Food
Upon perusing the menu, guests are greeted by a melodic blend of tradition and modernity. Noni’s culinary narrative is penned with a blend of traditional dishes that waltz elegantly with the mercantile culture’s influences. The approach to food here is imaginative yet devoid of overbearing frills, promising an exciting yet warm dining experience.
Noni takes immense pride in its commitment to locally-sourced, fresh produce, be it herbs or the catch of the day. Unlike many eateries, fresh fish don’t find a permanent spot on the menu; instead, they star in the daily specials, their presence dictated by the bounty the local fishermen reel in each day.
A glance at the seasonally-evolving menu reveals a clear Mediterranean essence. The appetiser section is a vibrant tableau of fresh produce, meats, and delightful condiments.
The curated cocktail menu displays a collection of Noni’s in-house mixology mastery. A particular favourite is the Jus D’Amour, a sweet blend of bourbon, Montenegro liqueur, fresh strawberry puree and lemon, shaken and topped with sparkling water. Also the in-house sommelier is on hand to advise diners on the very best wines, selected from a vast collection from around Europe. To our surprise, the Maltese and Gozian wines are some of the best we’ve tried – fresh, lights and bursting with flavour.
A tasting menu to remember
To truly appreciate the Noni experience, the celebrated Tasting Menu offers a harmonious interplay of wine and food. The eight-course degustation is a profound showcase of culinary craftsmanship where each course is a narrative, woven with flavours that resonate with the essence of Malta’s rich culinary heritage. The selected wines, meticulously paired with each course, accentuate the taste sensations, making each dish a harmonious culinary treat. The tasting menu changes regularly according to season ingredients, so each trip will be a new experience of discovery.
For the first course, diners are treated to the artisanal canapés, a selection of delicious, delicate and surprising small treats. Each one as delightful as the next, and perfectly setting the tone for the upcoming courses. Next we are treated to the delicious Mediterranean Summer Tart, which is made up of the revered Zeppi’s Farm pecorino cheese, a French style rich piperade, topped off with freshly picked local endemic herbs and a dash of a special reserve vintage balsamic. A unique Maltese staple that we discovered and loved is Karamelli pasta – little candy shaped parcels with a range of fillings. This time we are treated to a compot like blend of sweet native corn, sunflower seeds, topped with a generous portion of finely grated summer truffle. Biting into each parcel unleashed a burst of flavour and comte cheese.
Up next are the main-style courses. A staple for Noni is the fresh Seabass. A perfectly honed dish that has graced diners palates since the restaurants inception, so as you’d expect, is flawlessly prepared. Paired with courgette-wrapped sea urchin parfait, dressed with a fish bone and citrus sauce, the unique accoutrements are the perfect partners to the succulent white fish. The rich meat is balanced by the zesty flavours, and the crispy skin adds a crunchy dimension to create a truly unique experience.
As a contrast, a deeply rich and hearty Braised Veal Neck dish is served next. Sitting on a bed of homemade Green Tomato BBQ Sauce, adorned by a slice of preserved peach and accompanied by an opulent red wine jus with fresh capers. The veal melts in the mouth, and the sweet sauces perfectly complement the juicy and flavourful meat. Exquisitely presented, this textured dish is a homage to homely country food, with gamey flavours and an uplifting sweet finish.
For dessert, two dishes are presented; the Bambinella, which is a uniquely sweet Maltese pear, topped with fresh raspberries, a slice of tonka bean biscuit, and sloe gin sauce; and an interpretation of a classic Tiramisu, which is more of a ganache style slice of perfection, with single origin chocolate, Arabica coffee, vanilla and Don Papa rum. Both are exceptionally presented, so delicate that it feels blasphemous to destroy the beautiful creations, and incredibly tasty.
Just when you think there can’t be any more surprises, a delectable collection of petits fours is presented. From soft jelly sweets to crunchy biscuits and hard shelled chocolates with unexpectedly creamy centres, every bite is a treat. Discovering the different flavours and textures leads to delightful anticipation for each bite. Even though the generous portions of the tasting menu are filling and satisfying, one will strive find room to enjoy the final delicacies.
The ambiance at Noni is nothing short of poetic. The modern decor plays a sweet serenade to the venue’s historical elements, like the stone vaults and centuries-old oven that stand as silent witnesses to the bygone eras. The warm and informal atmosphere invites guests into a fine dining experience that is as comforting as it is exquisite.
In Conclusion
The service at Noni isn’t merely about attending to diners; it’s a rendition of exceptional Maltese hospitality. Expect a perfect atmosphere and a highly commendable personable service from the friendly and knowledgable staff.
In every sense, Noni is not only a Michelin-starred restaurant, but a journey through time, a celebration of Maltese culinary heritage, and a testimony to Chef Jonathan Brincat’s passion and expertise. The restaurant embodies a luxurious, warm, and memorable dining experience that resonates with the heartbeat of Valletta’s rich history and the sophisticated palate of the modern gourmand. A reservation is a must as to not miss out on this incredible experience of gastronomy, service and history.
