Geneva played host to the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, the watch industry’s most significant awards ceremony. Audemars Piguet emerged victorious in the ‘Iconic Watch’ category. With six nominations across the evening’s categories, The Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar, presented in 18-carat sand gold, triumphed over its rivals thanks to innovations that solve problems perpetual calendar owners have griped about for decades.
The achievement carries particular weight during the manufacturer’s 150th anniversary year. Six nominations across categories from ladies’ complications to sports chronographs demonstrated the breadth of the Le Brassus workshop’s current output. Yet it was the perpetual calendar that captured the jury’s attention, powered by Calibre 7138 and its all-in-one crown system that eliminates the fumbling and potential damage traditionally associated with adjusting these complex mechanisms.
Revoultionary Engineering
Perpetual calendars have long suffered from a usability problem. Adjusting the date, month, or leap year typically requires separate pushers, specific tools, and a manual thicker than most novels. The Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar addresses this through its all-in-one crown system, protected by five patents. Every adjustment flows through the crown itself, removing the risk of accidentally damaging the movement whilst setting the correct date.
The Calibre 7138 builds upon foundations laid by Calibre 5133, introduced in 2018. Both movements integrate perpetual calendar functions on a single level rather than stacking complications vertically, which contributes to the 41 mm case measuring just 9.5 mm thick. The mechanism automatically accounts for months with varying lengths and leap years, tracking the correct date without manual intervention until 2100.
Subtle Sand Gold Luxury
The case and bracelet utilise 18-carat sand gold, an alloy blending gold, copper, and palladium that shifts between white and rose gold hues depending on how the light catches it, enhanced by polished and satin-brushed bevels that showcase the kind of hand-finishing the Swiss do so brilliantly.
The 41 mm diameter suits modern wrist proportions whilst the Grande Tapisserie dial pattern remains faithful to the Royal Oak’s 1972 origins. Counters and the inner bezel receive galvanic treatment in matching sand gold, creating monochromatic cohesion that’s rather stunning in person. White gold hands and indexes carry luminescent coating for low-light legibility, whilst black printed calendar indications provide contrast without disrupting the dial’s visual balance.
Technical Refinement in The Details
Inside, the movement vibrates at 4 Hz, generating 28,800 vibrations per hour across 41 jewels and 422 components. Power reserve extends to 55 hours, sufficient for a weekend off the wrist without requiring adjustment. The 29.6 mm movement diameter and 4.1 mm thickness leave room within the case for the sapphire crystal and caseback, both treated with glareproofing. The piece is also water resistant, reaching depths of up to 50 metres.
The AP folding clasp integrates into the bracelet with the same attention to finishing found across the case, maintaining consistency from crown to clasp. Every element receives the same level of consideration, which is precisely what separates proper haute horlogy from mere watchmaking.
A Celebration of Peer Recognition
The significance of this victory shouldn’t be understated. The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève functions as the industry’s validation mechanism, where brands submit their work for evaluation by peers and specialists who actually understand what makes a great watch. Winning requires more than attractive aesthetics or heritage credentials—the jury examines technical merit, finishing quality, and whether a timepiece genuinely advances horological development.
“Receiving this distinction in our anniversary year is a tremendous privilege. For 150 years, Audemars Piguet has been driven by the spirit of collaboration inherited from the établissage system. It is a founding value we cultivate with passion, and one we are proud to see celebrated through the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.”
Ilaria Resta, Chief Executive Officer, Audemars Piguet
The five other nominations demonstrated the manufacturer’s impressive range across categories. The Royal Oak Mini Frosted Gold Quartz competed in the Ladies’ Watch category, whilst the Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon represented ladies’ complications. The Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT Large Date entered the chronograph category, the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked commemorated the 150th anniversary in men’s complications, and the Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph contested the sports watch prize. Six nominations in a single year speaks volumes about the workshop’s current form.
150 Years in the Making
Nestled in the Vallée de Joux, Audemars Piguet’s Le Brassus workshop has been honing its craft for a century and a half. Each generation contributes to a deep well of knowledge that informs every timepiece. The établissage system that Resta references in her statement fostered collaboration between independent craftspeople, allowing specialists to focus on their particular expertise whilst contributing to a larger whole. That spirit endures today, visible in how the manufacture approaches problem-solving.