We arrive at COYA for lunch, the restaurant’s entrance beckoning with warm ambient lighting that hints at the cultural journey ahead. Having secured our reservation weeks in advance—a testament to the establishment’s enduring popularity—we step into what can only be described as a carefully curated homage to Peru’s rich heritage.
The restaurant occupies a prime position within the Four Seasons Resort’s Restaurant Village, offering glimpses of Downtown Dubai’s glittering skyline through strategically placed windows. What strikes us immediately is the thoughtful balance between authenticity and accessibility, a quality that has undoubtedly contributed to the venue’s remarkable eight-year tenure at the pinnacle of Dubai’s competitive dining scene.
Design and atmosphere
The interior design reveals itself as a sophisticated celebration of Peruvian craftsmanship. Neutral tones provide an elegant backdrop for carefully selected artefacts: antique mirrors catch the light from handcrafted fixtures, while gilded carved wood panels add depth and texture to the space. Plush fabric wallpapers in earthy hues create intimate dining alcoves, each telling its own story through subtle details.
The open kitchen concept proves both theatrical and practical, allowing diners to witness the precise choreography of the culinary team. We observe chefs working with practiced efficiency, their movements reflecting the same attention to detail evident throughout the restaurant’s design. The theatrical element never overshadows the dining experience—rather, it enhances the sense of anticipation as aromatic smoke drifts from the robata grill.
Service philosophy
Our lunch begins with a welcome that immediately sets the tone for what follows. The service team demonstrates encyclopedic knowledge of both the menu and Peru’s culinary traditions, offering insights that elevate each dish beyond mere sustenance. We select a carefully curated selection of dishes that showcase the kitchen’s ability to blend traditional Peruvian techniques with contemporary influences.
Each course arrives with detailed explanations of preparation methods, ingredient provenance, and cultural significance. The pacing allows for proper appreciation of each dish while maintaining momentum throughout the afternoon. We particularly appreciate the team’s ability to read the table, adjusting their presence to match our preferences for conversation and contemplation.
Culinary journey
We begin our exploration with the classic sea bream ceviche, a dish that immediately demonstrates Peru’s national preparation. The sea bream arrives precisely cured in leche de tigre—that magical combination of citrus juices and Peruvian chilli that transforms raw fish into something sublime. The curing process has achieved perfect balance, with the fish maintaining its delicate texture while absorbing the bright, acidic marinade.
The accompaniments prove equally thoughtful: purple sweet potato provides earthy sweetness that complements the fish’s natural flavours, while jumbo corn kernels add satisfying texture and a subtle nuttiness. Crispy plantain chips offer the perfect vehicle for capturing every drop of the precious leche de tigre, their slight sweetness harmonising beautifully with the dish’s acidic backbone.
The chicken wings tempura represents an inspired fusion of techniques—Japanese tempura batter applied to chicken wings, then elevated with a maple chipotle glaze that bridges sweet and smoky flavours. The batter achieves remarkable lightness while maintaining structural integrity, creating wings that are simultaneously crispy and tender. The maple chipotle glaze provides complexity without overwhelming the chicken’s natural taste, while fresh chives add a subtle onion note that brightens each bite.
Our exploration of the restaurant’s grilled offerings begins with the char-grilled flank steak, a dish that showcases the kitchen’s understanding of both fire and flavour. The flank steak arrives with perfect char marks, the exterior caramelised while the interior remains beautifully pink. The anticuchera sauce—a traditional Peruvian marinade typically used for heart skewers—provides deep, earthy complexity with hints of cumin and chilli.
Crispy yuca chips accompany the steak, their golden exterior giving way to fluffy interiors that absorb the meat’s juices. The yellow chilli aioli adds another layer of Peruvian authenticity, its creamy texture and gentle heat providing the perfect bridge between the robust steak and delicate yuca.
The lomo saltado represents perhaps the most successful fusion on our table, demonstrating how Chinese stir-fry techniques can enhance traditional Peruvian ingredients. The bavette steak emerges from the wok with perfect searing, each piece maintaining its tenderness while acquiring the distinctive “wok hei”—that special flavour imparted by high-heat cooking.
Smoked soy avocado provides an unexpected but brilliant element, the fruit’s natural creaminess enhanced by subtle smokiness and umami depth from the soy. Datterini tomatoes contribute bright acidity and concentrated sweetness, while string fries—executed with precision—offer textural contrast and satisfying crunch. The dish exemplifies the restaurant’s approach to fusion, respecting both culinary traditions while creating something entirely new.
Our meal concludes with two desserts that demonstrate equal creativity and technical skill. The passion fruit granita arrives as a palate-cleansing revelation, its intensely tropical flavour providing refreshing contrast to the meal’s savoury elements. The shaved ice technique creates perfect texture—neither too coarse nor too fine—while biscuit crumble adds satisfying textural contrast.
Pineapple and mango sorbet components provide additional tropical notes without competing with the passion fruit’s intensity. The dried mango leaf garnish offers aromatic complexity, its subtle earthiness grounding the dessert’s bright fruit flavours. The presentation is both elegant and playful, reflecting the restaurant’s overall approach to dining.
The caramel ganache provides a rich finale to our meal, its silky texture achieved through careful temperature control and quality ingredients. The chocolate and caramel combination proves classically satisfying, while fresh raspberries contribute necessary acidity to cut through the dessert’s richness. Red fruit sorbet offers another textural element, its icy freshness providing palate relief between spoonfuls of ganache.
Honeycomb adds final textural interest, its airy structure and subtle sweetness complementing rather than competing with the primary flavours. The dessert demonstrates the kitchen’s technical capabilities while remaining approachable and satisfying.
Beverage programme
The pisco programme deserves recognition as one of Dubai’s most comprehensive collections. Our afternoon includes the classic Pisco Sour, its frothy texture achieved through proper technique and quality ingredients. The balance between sweetness, acidity, and the grape brandy’s distinctive character proves exemplary.
More adventurous offerings include the Popcorn Sour, incorporating popcorn-infused Laphroaig and Macallan whiskies. While unconventional, the combination works surprisingly well, the smokiness complementing rather than overwhelming the base spirit. The beverage programme demonstrates the same creative confidence evident throughout the culinary offerings.
Entertainment and atmosphere
The afternoon’s progression includes carefully curated musical programming that enhances rather than dominates the dining experience. Live performances and DJ sets create energy without preventing conversation—a delicate balance many establishments struggle to achieve. The recently added Chanca club provides an option for those seeking to extend their experience beyond lunch.
The music selection draws from Peru’s rich musical heritage while incorporating contemporary elements that appeal to Dubai’s international clientele. Volume levels remain considerate of diners while creating an undeniably vibrant atmosphere that distinguishes the venue from more sedate fine dining establishments.
Value proposition
The restaurant positions itself firmly within Dubai’s premium dining sector. However, the combination of food quality, service standards, and overall experience justifies the investment. Our carefully selected dishes provide comprehensive exploration of Peruvian cuisine’s complexity and sophistication, particularly the successful fusion of traditional techniques with Asian influences.
The menu offers various options allowing for different dining approaches, from lighter selections to more substantial preparations. Wine pairings and premium beverage selections enhance the experience, with quality consistently matching expectations.
Our afternoon at COYA reinforces the establishment’s position as one of Dubai’s most accomplished restaurants. The combination of authentic Peruvian techniques, quality ingredients, and sophisticated presentation creates an experience that satisfies both culinary curiosity and social dining expectations. The venue succeeds in making Peruvian cuisine accessible without compromising its essential character—a considerable achievement that explains its sustained success over eight remarkable years.