Sotheby’s prepares to stage the most significant sale of Breguet timepieces in thirty years this November. The auction house has assembled nearly seventy lots spanning two and a half centuries of horological innovation, each piece authenticated by leading experts working alongside Emmanuel Breguet, Vice-President of Heritage and a direct descendant of the founder himself.

The sale forms part of the bi-annual Important Watches event and promises to showcase the extraordinary breadth of the manufacturer’s contribution to watchmaking history.

This carefully curated selection spans the entire arc of the manufacture’s history, from the final years of the 18th century through to the closing decades of the 20th. Each timepiece has been selected for its historical significance and its ability to demonstrate the technical innovation that has defined the house for two and a half centuries. The sale includes everything from revolutionary complications that changed the course of watchmaking to aesthetic experiments that pushed the boundaries of design.

Royal Commissions and Ingenious Complications

The sale’s crown jewel was revealed last spring when the auction house announced lot number 4548, a perpetual tact watch created for King George IV in 1827. The piece features both date display and power reserve indication, demonstrating the level of complication work being achieved in the early 19th century. Tact watches, designed to be read by touch without removing them from a pocket, were a speciality of the house and this royal commission exemplifies the technical sophistication demanded by the most elevated clients of the era.

Equally remarkable is lot number 1675, a wristwatch from 1926 that showcases the firm’s willingness to embrace modernist aesthetics. The rectangular case combines brushed pink gold with Osmior, whilst the dial features applied cubist hour markers that would look perfectly at home in a contemporary gallery. This piece serves as a reminder that innovation has never been purely mechanical.

Treasures from the Founder’s Era

Among the most significant lots is number 1890, a tourbillon from the founder’s own period fitted with a natural escapement. Originally acquired by a Russian count through the brand’s agent in Russia, the piece demonstrates the international reach of the business even in its earliest decades. The tourbillon, invented by Abraham-Louis Breguet himself in 1795, remains one of the most celebrated complications in watchmaking, and examples from the founder’s lifetime are exceptionally rare.

Another extraordinary piece is lot number 1052, a tact watch in yellow gold with grey enamel decoration enhanced with pearls. The outer arrow indicator is rendered in gold, whilst the case displays meticulous enamel work. First sold in 1803, the watch features what has been described as a spectacular escapement. These tact watches allowed their owners to discreetly check the time during social occasions when producing a watch might be considered impolite, a peculiarly elegant solution to the demands of 19th-century etiquette.

Art Deco Innovation 

The collection extends into the Art Deco period with lot number 1810, a white gold jumping-hour watch from 1930. The jumping-hour complication, where the hour indication changes instantaneously rather than gradually, appealed to the modernist sensibility of the era with its clean, unambiguous display. The use of white gold rather than the more traditional yellow metal further emphasises the contemporary aesthetic.

Two marine chronometers completed in 1806 and 1818 represent another aspect of the workshop’s output that often receives less attention than its wristwatches and pocket watches. Both chronometers were started during the French Revolution, making them the oldest known examples of their type. These instruments were critical for naval navigation in an era when determining longitude at sea required precise timekeeping, and the firm’s work in this field contributed directly to maritime safety.

Wristwatches of Exceptional Rarity

The sale includes two wristwatches that collectors will find particularly compelling. Lot number 921 is a steel watch featuring both a magnifying glass and slide rule, a tool watch before the concept had been fully articulated. The combination of these functional elements in a wristwatch from this period demonstrates a willingness to create practical complications rather than purely decorative ones.

Perhaps even rarer is a Type XX from 1954 featuring a gold bezel. This chronograph was produced in only two examples, making it one of the most exclusive lots in the entire sale. The Type XX was developed for French military pilots, and the standard production versions were far more utilitarian than this exceptional variant. The use of a gold bezel on what was fundamentally a professional tool watch creates a fascinating tension between practicality and luxury.

The First of the Souscription Anniversary Series

Bringing the collection into the present century, the sale includes lot number 250 from the Classique Souscription 2025 series. This piece holds the honour of being the very first in a limited series running from number 250 to 5250, following the tradition of assigning unique numbers to each timepiece. The model was launched in April to inaugurate the 250th anniversary celebrations in Paris, where Abraham-Louis Breguet first established his workshop.

The watch pays tribute to the famous Souscription pocket watches of the late 18th century, which were offered on an innovative principle that allowed purchasers to pay a quarter of the price upon ordering. More than two centuries later, the house has chosen to revive this acquisition method for its anniversary model. Proceeds from the sale will support the ongoing restoration of the Petit-Trianon at Versailles, continuing the sponsorship initiatives maintained since 2006.

The Art of Subtle Sophistication

Behind its clean single-hand appearance, the Classique Souscription 2025 conceals considerable technical sophistication. The hand itself is individually flame-blued using an entirely manual process that demands exceptional skill. The timing must be precise, as too brief or too extended a heating period renders the component unusable, requiring the artisan to begin again with a fresh piece.

The enamel dial embodies the restrained aesthetic that has characterised the brand’s work throughout its history. It features the distinctive Arabic numerals and a minute track indicating not just the hours but also the 5, 10, 15 and 30-minute markers. Depending on how light strikes the surface, the inscriptions ‘Souscription’ and the unique serial number appear discreetly alongside the secret signature, the latter engraved using a pantograph that dates from the founder’s own era. At the heart of the watch sits the new VS00 calibre, developed specifically for this anniversary model.

Bidding on 250 Years of Innovation

The auction house requires all potential buyers to register before the sale commences at 19:00 Central European Time on Sunday 9 November. Additional details regarding viewing times, condition reports and bidding procedures can be found on the official website. Given the historical significance of many lots and their exceptional rarity, interest from collectors and institutions is expected to be considerable.

“This watch is the link between what we wish to share of the history of Breguet and our desire to perpetuate this history in motion.” 

Gregory Kissling, Chief Executive Officer, Montres Breguet

This sale, bringing together pieces from across 250 years of production, offers collectors a rare opportunity to acquire tangible examples of that ongoing conversation between history and innovation.