Breitling has reached into its archives to resurrect a forgotten era of feminine horology. Drawing inspiration from the 1940s Premier Fantaisies line, the new Lady Premier collection fuses sculptural cases, gradient leather straps, and lab-grown diamonds into timepieces that celebrate the women who have shaped the brand’s history.
This pioneering spirit has been a hallmark of the Swiss manufacturer for over eight decades, influencing design decisions and creative directions at every stage. With Lady Premier, Breitling revisits its heritage, drawing from the Premier Fantaisies models that first established the brand’s reputation for crafting watches specifically for women.
From Archives to Wrist
The 1940s marked a transformative period for Breitling when Willy Breitling reimagined the chronograph as a statement of personal style. The Premier line introduced refined materials and elegant details, elevating watchmaking to a realm of accessible luxury. Among these early releases, the Premier Fantaisies models stood out with avant-garde lugs and distinctive case architecture, reflecting the era’s optimism and creativity. Willy’s wife, Beatrice, later became instrumental in guiding the brand’s aesthetic, ensuring that sophistication and technical integrity remained central to Breitling’s designs.
Lady Premier honours this legacy while embracing contemporary values. Fluid case shapes, ombré alligator straps, and meticulously finished dials create timepieces that adapt seamlessly to different occasions and personal styles. The collection’s naming pays homage to past lines such as the Lady-J and Wings Lady collections from the 1980s, bridging history and modernity through a shared commitment to design with purpose.
Architecture Rooted in the Past
The Lady Premier’s design draws directly from the 1940s Premier Fantaisies, particularly their distinctive lugs and seamless case-to-bracelet integration. Pablo Widmer, Head of Product Design, notes that archival designs inspired emotional responses, later reinterpreted with modern curves, finishes, and colours to balance heritage with contemporary style.
Two sizes cater to different wrists and preferences. The 36 mm automatic models feature the COSC-certified Caliber 10 with 42 hours of power reserve, offered in stainless steel with Aubergine, Sage, and Dove Grey dials—or an 18-carat gold variant with a Chocolate gradient strap. The 32 mm models employ the COSC-certified Caliber 77 SuperQuartz, with mother-of-pearl, Ink Blue, or Midnight Black dials paired with a seven-row Chevron bracelet, offering three to four years of battery life.
Both sizes feature cascading diamonds, lab-grown and ethically sourced gold, and dial finishes that play with light. Cambered sapphire crystals with anti-glare coating, solid casebacks, non-screw-locked crowns, and fixed bezels ensure legibility, durability, and a sculptural, refined aesthetic.
Celebrating Women Who Shaped Breitling
Breitling’s relationship with women extends back to the earliest days of wristwatch adoption. Women recognised the practicality of wristwatches decades before men fully embraced the shift from pocket watches, and the brand recognised this market from the start. The 1940s Premier line included some of the first chronographs designed for women, acknowledging that female buyers demanded the same technical sophistication and design integrity as men.
Actress Raquel Welch famously wore a Breitling chronograph in the 1960s spy film Fathom, her character’s confidence and capability mirrored in her choice of timepiece. Willy Breitling noted that a woman’s watch could transform her personality—a recognition that timepieces are personal statements shaping how we navigate the world. Beatrice Breitling brought this insight into the design process, ensuring that technical capability and aesthetic refinement coexisted seamlessly.
Lady Premier continues this tradition, honouring women who shaped the brand while creating watches for those defining its future. The collection recognises that women approach watch buying with the same rigor as men: evaluating movement quality, design integrity, material selection, and long-term value. CEO Georges Kern describes Lady Premier as a contemporary take on elegant watchmaking, embodying confidence and character that resonate across generations.
Diamonds, Design, and Detail
Lab-grown diamonds, ethical gold sourcing, and meticulously developed gradient leather straps reflect evolving values around sustainability and craftsmanship. These design decisions elevate the collection, demonstrating that modern luxury encompasses both ethical responsibility and aesthetic artistry.