The Aquanaut by Patek Philippe has consistently set the standard for refined travel complications. Among watch enthusiasts, the reference 5164 has achieved iconic status, representing the epitome of versatile GMT functionality.
Upon the discontinuation of the Aquanaut ref. 5164A—a model cherished by many despite its exclusivity and substantial price point—there was significant anticipation about its successor. The Aquanaut Travel Time retains its prestige in the newly introduced ref. 5164G. The functionality of the model is both practical and intuitive, featuring dual time zone pushers that adjust the local time without compromising the visibility of home time, courtesy of a cleverly designed skeletonised hand.
The new iteration, ref. 5164G, continues a legacy that dates back to the early 1960s with the ref. 2597 Travel Time Calatrava. The movement, conceived by Louis Cottier, the pioneer of the worldtime function, marks a lineage of innovation. The Aquanaut Travel Time offers a bold and athletic take on this storied heritage.
Despite hopes for a new stainless steel version, Patek Philippe has chosen to extend the lineage with a precious metal variant. The ref. 5164G in white gold reintroduces a white-metal option, maintaining the same caliber 26‑330 S C FUS movement. This update primarily alters the aesthetics and feel on the wrist rather than the internal mechanics.
Notably, the Aquanaut Travel Time remains one of the most wearable sports watches available, known for its comfortable custom-cut rubber strap and deployment clasp. The transition to gold, however, introduces a change in weight distribution, which some might find less balanced compared to lighter materials. Furthermore, the water resistance has been reduced from 120 meters in the 5164A to 30 meters, reflecting a shift in focus towards enhancing other design elements like the visibility through a display caseback.
The latest model boasts an opaline blue-gray dial with the distinctive embossed Aquanaut pattern, housed in a white gold case. While initial photos suggested a lighter hue, the dial presents as darker in person, adapting subtly with changes in lighting, which might appeal to those preferring understated elegance.
Priced at around £51,000, the ref. 5164G is set to continue its presence in Patek Philippe’s offerings, sustaining the reference’s 13-year tenure, the longest of any in their catalog. While it may not be the steel version longed for by many, it represents Patek Philippe’s steadfast approach to design and material choice, undeterred by shifting market trends.
As the watch community receives the new Aquanaut Travel Time, it reinforces its position as a top modern timepiece in Patek Philippe’s lineup. For enthusiasts, it remains a coveted piece, embodying the pinnacle of luxury travel watches.