Breguet reimagines the Marine with new shades of blue

Breguet has unveiled new interpretations of the Marine 5517 and the Marine Chronographe 5527, pairing hand-guilloched dials with a palette that runs from ice blue to black. The two references, offered in white gold, rose gold and titanium, continue a collection that traces its roots to the House's nineteenth-century naval commissions. Here, The Executive Magazine looks at what the new models reveal about one of watchmaking's most historic names.
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laurence brannigan

Company Director at Jacob & Co. | Multi-Sector Entrepreneur | Watch & Jewellery Features Editor at The Executive Magazine

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Breguet has presented new interpretations of the Marine 5517 and the Marine Chronographe 5527, giving its maritime collection a fresh set of colours for the season ahead. The two creations carry distinct personalities while sharing the emblematic codes of the Marine line and the watchmaking expertise for which the House is known.

For Breguet, the launch is a reminder of how steadily the Marine has evolved since its origins. Abraham-Louis Breguet was appointed watchmaker to the French Royal Navy in 1815, and the collection still carries that seafaring inheritance in its styling and its name.

A new palette for a maritime signature

The new models reveal a palette of shades ranging from ice blue to black, set against subtle gradients of blue and grey. Each reference is offered in white gold, rose gold or titanium, giving collectors a choice of metals to match the cooler tones of the dials.

The colour work is matched by the finish on the dial itself. Crafted in gold, each dial is hand-guilloched with the Quai de l’Horloge motif, whose relief catches the light differently with every shade. The result is a set of watches that rewards a closer look, with surfaces that shift in character as the wrist turns.

Two personalities

The Marine 5517 keeps the clean three-hand layout that has made it a quiet favourite among collectors of contemporary sports watches. The Marine Chronographe 5527 adds a chronograph function, giving the collection a more technical presence for those who prefer a complication on the dial.

Both references stay faithful to the design language of the collection, from the distinctive wave-patterned guilloche to the oversized roman numerals and the sword-shaped hands. Breguet describes the pair as creations with distinct personalities, united by the collection’s signature codes.

A collection tied to the sea

The Marine line descends directly from the precision chronometers Breguet supplied to naval powers in the age of sail, when accurate timekeeping at sea was a matter of navigation and survival. The House’s founder received his appointment as watchmaker to the French Royal Navy in 1815, an honour that still anchors the collection’s identity two centuries later.

That history explains the collection’s characteristic details, from the wave-patterned guilloche on the dial to the oversized roman numerals designed for legibility at a glance. The new colourways keep those codes intact while giving the range a lighter, more contemporary presence on the wrist.

Breguet presents the new Marine references as a study in restrained modernity, where a historic silhouette is refreshed through colour and material rather than redesign. The approach will resonate with collectors who prefer their luxury watches to evolve without losing their sense of origin.

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