One of Italy’s most coveted dining rooms has crossed the Channel, for it’s first British address. Langosteria has arrived at Raffles London at The OWO, bringing its Ligurian rhythm, its globe-spanning catch and a particular brand of Italian hospitality. Nine restaurants now carry the name, from Milan to St Moritz, and this one promises signature plates alongside creations written for London alone.

The group’s instinct for location has always been good. Milan’s Design District, the sea spray at Paraggi near Portofino, the alpine hush of St Moritz, all of which are some of Europe’s most photographed postcodes.

Enrico Buonocore came to restaurants from business rather than the kitchen, and he has made that an advantage. He approaches the work by thinking like a client, which explains why these rooms feel so instinctively welcoming from the guest’s side of the table. The creed goes back to the Amalfi coast, where he grew up and where the food was incredible fresh, simple, and done well.

Standout dishes

Sourcing is where this kitchen puts its energy, and the net is cast gloriously wide. Seafood comes in from Italy, Spain, France and Scotland, picked purely on how good it is that morning, and you can taste the difference the moment anything reaches the table.

The Sicilian red prawn is a fantastic way to begin. Butter-soft, crowned with wafer-thin pecorino, it two simple ingredients, cooked beautifully.

The mains bring the house classics with them, chief among them the King Crab Special Edition 2007 and the Brittany Lobster “Spicy Blue”, both familiar from the group’s Continental rooms. The black grouper Chateaubriand is the one to watch, its crisp skin and natural saltiness lifted by a tangy-sweet caponata, that brilliant Sicilian relish of aubergine, olive and caper. Langoustine and lobster arrive perfectly al dente in a pool of bright lemon butter, and the Milanese turbot comes with asparagus and saffron.

Spirited pours

The cocktail list is short and rather more playful than the neoclassical setting might suggest. Pomodoro Mezcal is a smoky take on the Bloody Mary, while the Spicy Margarita is the one to order first and almost certainly again, jalapeño giving it a clean heat that builds slowly.

The wine collection has real depth to it. Champagne is well represented, as you would expect, alongside a strong selection of Italian reds and whites that make up much of the list and reward those willing to look beyond the familiar names. A glass of Ferrari Brut is an excellent way to begin, a traditional-method sparkling from Trentino that works particularly well alongside the raw seafood.

Here, expect exceptional seafood sourced from around the world, signature dishes alongside creations exclusive to London, a carefully curated wine collection and beautifully designed interiors that celebrate Italian craftsmanship while paying tribute to the rich heritage of this historic destination.