Modern watchmaking rarely witnesses collaborations that genuinely push the boundaries of both design and engineering. Yet the latest partnership between Bvlgari and MB&F has achieved exactly that, creating a timepiece that transforms the legendary Serpenti into a mechanical tour de force.
The project began with a chance encounter between Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Bvlgari’s watchmaking creation director, and Maximilian Büsser, the maverick founder of MB&F. Their shared passion for automotive design and horological innovation has spawned a creation that perfectly balances artistic flair with technical prowess.
Heritage meets innovation
Born from Bvlgari’s iconic 1948 Serpenti design, this new iteration slithers boldly into the 21st century. The creation demanded complete redevelopment, pushing the boundaries of both mechanical engineering and case manufacturing. Rather than simply updating an existing design, the team embraced the challenge of reimagining the Serpenti from the ground up.
The result masterfully combines Bvlgari’s jewelry-making expertise with MB&F’s mechanical wizardry. Each curve and contour serves both aesthetic and functional purposes, creating a harmony between form and function that’s rarely achieved in watchmaking.
Engineering the impossible
Creating the Serpenti’s sinuous case proved a manufacturing nightmare that would make a Formula 1 engineer wince. The complex curves extend beyond the metal case to encompass five sapphire crystals, including the snake’s hypnotic eyes and multi-faceted rear section. Each crystal receives anti-reflective coating on both sides, providing generous views of the movement while maintaining water resistance to 30 metres – no small feat given the case’s complexity.
The mechanical heart beating within this serpentine creation breaks every conventional watchmaking rule. Two paper-thin aluminium domes, machined to near impossibility, serve as the snake’s eyes – the left rotating every 12 hours, the right every 60 minutes. When darkness falls, hand-applied Super-LumiNova brings these mechanical eyes eerily to life.
Automotive influence
Sharp-eyed petrolheads will spot the automotive DNA coursing through this timepiece. The case resembles sleek bodywork, while the stepped sapphire crystal mirrors the rear window design of classic sports cars. Even the crowns, cleverly integrated into the rear lugs, could have been lifted straight from a vintage racing machine.
Under the bonnet, the movement sports distinctive touches including a grille featuring the signature hexagonal scale motif – a clever nod to both automotive design and the original Serpenti’s snake-like appearance.
Mechanical mastery
At the heart of this mechanical marvel sits an oversized 14mm flying balance wheel, visible through the sapphire crystal. This technical tour de force beats at a traditional 2.5Hz, held firmly in place by a three-dimensional bridge bearing both partners’ names. The manual-winding movement comprises 310 hand-finished components, showcasing MB&F’s commitment to artisanal manufacturing.
Such meticulous attention to detail comes at a price – both monetary and temporal. The watchmakers can only craft six to eight movements monthly, meaning the 99 limited pieces will require over a year to complete.
Versions and availability
The collection offers three distinct personalities, each limited to 33 pieces. The first features a grade 5 titanium case with piercing blue hour and minute domes. The second opts for 18K rose gold construction paired with mesmerising green eyes. The third and final version comes dressed in black PVD-coated stainless steel, brought to life with vibrant red eyes.
Each version maintains the same technical specifications while offering its own unique character. The 39mm case measures 53mm lug-to-lug with a height of 18mm – dimensions that command presence without overwhelming the wrist.
Legacy of collaboration
This marks the second partnership between these horological heavyweights, following 2021’s successful LM FlyingT Allegra. While that piece brought Bvlgari’s jewellery expertise to MB&F’s universe, this latest creation reverses the formula, injecting MB&F’s mechanical mastery into one of Bvlgari’s most iconic designs.