Breitling Breathes New Life into Historic Gallet Brand

Breitling acquires historic Swiss brand Gallet, with plans to revive the 200-year-old name by 2026. This strategic acquisition—Breitling's second after Universal Genève—positions the venerable chronograph specialist to expand its market footprint while preserving a remarkable heritage of adventure timepieces that once timed the Wright brothers' first flight and adorned President Truman's wrist
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Jack Bell

Technology Correspondent at The Executive Magazine

A Legacy Reborn

Breitling’s acquisition of the historic Swiss watch brand founded in 1826 comes with ambitious plans to relaunch it on its bicentennial anniversary. This second significant brand acquisition, following the 2023 purchase of Universal Genève, signals Breitling’s continued expansion within the luxury watch sector.

The storied Gallet name comes with impressive credentials. Founded by Julien Gallet in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the brand built a reputation creating robust chronographs for aviation, racing, and exploration—a heritage that aligns with Breitling’s own DNA. Under this new arrangement, Gallet will be positioned as a luxury, entry-level sibling, bringing a distinctive approach to precision timing to a broader audience.

“This acquisition is a natural next step in Breitling’s expansion,” explains Georges Kern, CEO. “We are reviving Gallet under our umbrella of expertise and craftsmanship. Our vision is long-term—reviving it as a strong brand in watchmaking, while honouring its legacy of adventure and innovation in chronographs.”

Pioneering Spirit

Gallet carries a fascinating history. After its Swiss establishment in 1826, the company expanded into the American market in 1856, eventually making the United States its primary market through sole distributor Jules Racine & Co from 1890 onwards.

Gallet’s place in timekeeping history was secured when they created the stopwatch that timed the Wright brothers’ first powered flight at Kitty Hawk in 1903. Their chronograph—marketed as “The Sun”—recorded the 59-second, 852-foot journey that changed transportation forever.

The company’s technical prowess grew substantially after 1907 when they acquired watch manufacturer Société d’Horlogerie Electa. The subsequent two decades until 1926 saw technical advancement for Gallet, with numerous patents and international recognition establishing it as a leader in precision chronographs.

Following this period, Gallet focused primarily on its established American market, designing watches while coordinating their manufacturing and assembly in Switzerland. This business model served well until the quartz crisis of the 1970s and the soaring Swiss franc of the 1980s silenced many traditional Swiss watchmakers.

Timekeeping Heritage

Two standout Gallet models earned particular fame for their pioneering functionality. The 1939 Flying Officer revolutionised travel timekeeping as one of the first waterproof chronographs designed for tracking multiple time zones. This instrument became essential for pilots navigating the early days of intercontinental flight, when journeys required multiple overnight refuelling stops.

The prestige of this model reached presidential heights when Harry S. Truman received one as a Christmas gift, inscribed with “Col. Truman From Vic Paul.” Truman wore it regularly and reportedly described it as “the most elaborate wristwatch I ever saw.” Today, the Truman Flying Officer ranks among the most sought-after vintage Gallet pieces for serious collectors.

Equally significant was the MultiChron Clamshell, introduced in 1938 as one of the first truly waterproof chronographs. Engineered to withstand harsh environmental conditions including dust, humidity, and rainfall, the series came in specialised variants for motorsport, speed boating, aviation, and other demanding applications.

The motorsport connection strengthened in 1940 when American racing legend Rex Mays received a MultiChron Regulator after winning the Springfield Mile, a prestigious flat track auto racing championship. This prize highlighted Gallet’s prominence in motorsport timing.

Strategic Direction

For Breitling, this adds more than just another brand to their portfolio. Alfred Gantner, Co-Founder of Partners Group and Chairman of Breitling, explained: “We continue to have strong confidence in Breitling’s position to expand market share in the luxury watch sector. Acquiring Gallet is the second key move that underscores the long-term strategy we’ve been building.”

The timing speaks volumes about Breitling’s approach to heritage preservation. By planning the relaunch for 2026—exactly 200 years after Julien Gallet founded the company—Breitling demonstrates thoughtful stewardship of watchmaking history.

This calculated move addresses different price segments and consumer preferences while maintaining a prestigious reputation. The luxury watch market continues to show resilience even amid economic uncertainties, with heritage brands particularly valued by collectors.

Heritage Conservation

Breitling’s acquisition of Gallet follows a pattern across the luxury watch industry, where dormant brands find new life under larger manufacturers. This approach preserves horological heritage while providing the financial backing and expertise needed to bring historic names back to market.

President Harry S. Truman smiling and pointing to his watch upon arrival in Miami. He traveled to Miami to deliver a speech at the Golden Jubilee Convention of the Veterans of Foreign Wars. Others are unidentified.

The watchmaking world has witnessed several successful brand revivals in recent years. With its rich American market history and significant contributions to aviation and motorsport timing, Gallet offers a distinctive heritage that complements Breitling’s existing narrative.

For collectors and enthusiasts, the revival promises the return of iconic Gallet designs, potentially reimagined with modern manufacturing techniques while maintaining their distinctive aesthetic and functional DNA.

A New Chapter

The planned 2026 relaunch date provides Breitling ample time to develop a comprehensive strategy for positioning Gallet appropriately within a broader portfolio. As an entry-level luxury option, Gallet could provide an accessible entry point to precision chronographs, potentially attracting younger consumers or first-time buyers.

When Gallet watches return to showcases after nearly five decades of absence, they’ll become both a celebration of horological heritage and a fresh chapter in an adventure-filled story.

For admirers of mechanical watchmaking and the connection between timepieces and adventure, Gallet’s return under Breitling’s stewardship marks a significant development. The Swiss watchmaking landscape grows richer with each heritage brand that finds new life.

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