This year at Watches & Wonders, Patek Philippe Calatrava unveiled the white gold 5396G Annual Calendar, enhancing the collection with a gradient blue dial and diamond baguette indices.
Maintaining the signature features, the 5396G boasts a white gold case measuring 38.5mm in diameter and 11.2mm in thickness, with a water resistance of 30 meters. The watch is powered by Patek’s caliber 26‑330 S QA LU 24H. It visible through a sapphire caseback, driving the annual calendar, moonphase, and centre sweep seconds hand. The day and month display is in-line below the 12 o’clock position, while the date is in a subdial at 6 o’clock.
The dial features a sunburst blue gradient transitioning to black near the minute track, creating a subtle yet captivating effect. Sharp dauphine hands and a sweeping seconds hand complete the look. The 5396G presents on a shiny blue alligator strap with a deployment clasp.
Patek Philippe 5396
The Patek 5396 Annual Calendar was introduced in 2006. It was the first annual calendar in a Calatrava-style case, a significant addition to the line since Patek’s initial annual calendar debut. The 5396 series received its last update in 2016, marking the 20th anniversary of the complication. This latest version is the most elegant iteration yet.
Patek Philippe Calatrava has utilised the blue gradient dial and baguette indices combination, notably in the 5170P, the brand’s first chronograph with an in-house caliber. This combination on the longstanding annual calendar reference is a fitting homage to the 5396. While platinum could have made an even bolder statement, it remains primarily reserved for higher complications like this year’s 5236P.
Baguette indices are a preferred method of incorporating diamonds on a dial, offering a more subdued approach to diamond setting. This style has been successful in models like Rexhep Rexhepi’s Rubis or Diamont. It is expected to succeed here as well. Paired with the gradient blue dial, it adds a compelling dimension to Patek’s annual calendar lineup.